A Quiet Life in Tokyo
We’ve been waiting to visit Japan since, well, the moment we returned from our first trip to Tokyo in 2017.
Once again, our days were filled with delightful culinary experiences and remarkable levels of politeness, despite Tokyo’s mega-city status. We were even more motivated to return after the sadness of the city hosting the Olympics (brilliantly, of course) with empty stadiums during the pandemic.
Although we always have our favourite destinations, we book our trips whenever we spot a good flight deal. Last time, we flew with the mighty ANA - still my favourite airline experience - and this time we balanced it out with Japan Airlines (more on that later). We also had another person with us, my beloved's older brother, who we were eager to show more of the world. We knew he would appreciate the variety, kindness, cleanliness, and the vastness of Tokyo. This is where we spent the first five days of our visit.
We arrived on a Friday, checked into our rooms at the superb Hotel Sardonyx, and ventured out to explore the vibrant city life. We were less than a 15-minute walk from the edge of Ginza, so the stroll helped to acclimatise us while we searched for a late dinner. We popped into the flagship Muji but decided to save the Muji café experience for another day when we had more energy to enjoy it. Thus, returning to Mos Burger was straightforward, quick, and easy.
I immediately felt at home in Tokyo all over again. The city has an uncanny ability to not feel as if it’s filled with 14 million residents, plus all the national and international tourists that flock to its vibrancy. The walk to Ginza was quite peaceful, even though we passed many Lawsons - the affordable chain of convenience and pharmacy stores that are everywhere. (Except I keep calling it ‘Watsons’, the equivalent chain in Malaysia and some other countries - perhaps we saw it in Hong Kong?)
For our first full day, we decided to tick off some of our previous greatest hits:
First, the coconut bread at Bills was one of my favourite breakfast experiences from last time. At the weekend, there is likely to be a wait, but you can put your name down and return at the allocated time. It’s akin to a reservation but done on the day and in person. This allowed us to enjoy a walk before heading back to take our seats in their super comfy curved booths. We also had a full breakfast, including ricotta pancakes and sweetcorn fritters, all as delightful as they were those years ago.
Next, we set off in search of our first coffee stop of the trip, combined with our first experience of one of Tokyo's shopping centres, to find the delightful Blue Bottle Coffee, where we were fortunate enough to get a tiny table. This was my first realisation of how much harder it will be to get into places with the three of us, rather than the usual two.
Ginza looked beautiful today, but we headed out to experience the Shibuya Crossing. The famous multiple zebra crossings were as busy as ever, and the buildings surrounding them, now including an IKEA, seemed to have doubled in number.
We then settled into some calm again at About Life Coffee. During our first visit to Tokyo, we only experienced their coffee from the hole in the wall. I have a vivid memory, aided by photos, of sitting outside on the little bench enjoying iced coffee. This time around, they have a beer and coffee shop combo and once again, I squeezed myself and my winter layers onto a bar stool, managing to grab hold of two of the three seats we needed for our party of three.
In the afternoon, we contrasted by visiting a new to us, but old neighbourhood, Takaban. To our surprise, we discovered an actual Costa Coffee there. The main street was lined with small local shops and eateries, and we took the opportunity to stock up on some snacks from a local bakery to enjoy while we strolled through the side streets. Experiencing everyday life while admiring the local architecture is always my greatest draw when travelling, as it combines my two passions.
In the evening we enjoyed the first of our meals at a Muji cafe, followed by part 1 of the shop. I had bought a shopping list, especially since I had missed out on picking up some bits in Kuala Lumpur, such as new water bottles with hooks that are unavailable in the UK and folding travel hangers for a few pence compared to the UK price. (Little did I know that we were going to return home to learn the sad news that our local MUJI, one of a handful in the UK was closing).
We ended the day with a nightcap at Dean & Deluca, a brand that alights fond memories whenever I see it in Tokyo. It’s always a Chai Latte here for me. (You can read more about my experiences in New York and Washington on this website.)
It is a comfort when things stay the same; like the Yodobashi store in Akihabara Electric Town. I remember being gigantic last time seems to have grown. It probably hasn’t but the neighbourhood around it has. I recall this being pretty much the only reason to go to the neighbourhood and now it seems a destination for anyone into It is a mecca for anyone into anime, manga, and video games - or if you want to buy a new washing machine.
There are plenty of restaurants all around it and indeed inside it. Unfortunately, we chose poorly and ended up having a disappointing and overpriced pasta meal after a long wait for a table.
Even though the store felt overwhelming this time, I still enjoyed seeing all the innovations that I hope will become available to me in the future, particularly in luggge. I love the sunroof-style openings for cses which eliminate the need for suitcases to take up double the space when open.. And of course cup holders, charging cables and outside pockets that open on the press of a button rather than a clunky zip.
I am still waiting for the Samsung fridge freezers to make it to the UK - the ones that have drawers rather than doors so you don’t have to open the whole freezer to get one item out. There were plenty on display, and many people were shopping for them; It’s clearly the norm here.
And one day we will see the top-loading washing machines equipped with hangers, so clothes won’t get tangled and creased. It seems obvious, but apparently, it’s a concept that has only fully caught on in Japan.
Once again, to balance the modern, we visited Sensō-ji temple afterwards. The oldest in Tokyo, the many buildings surrounding it were packed with visitors and worshippers. Although not religious myself, it warms my heart to see so many young people praying and offering blessings. This being Tokyo, we are never far from a coffee shop and this time we strolled through this busy area to Nordic coffee roaster Fuglen. The helpful staff noticed our struggle up and down the tricky spiral staircase and then kindly found us three seats on the corner of the communal table.
For day three’s evening shopping experience, we’d held back another Tokyo big hitter, Uniqlo and then made up for the poor lunch experience but having a fantastic dinner at a branch of Eataly to round off the weekend.
I like seeing a city during the working week and we got out early on Monday to get to breakfast at The Morning Folks in Oshiage. The service was fantastic, and we enjoyed a pancake breakfast while looking up at the Skytree Tower on a beautiful blue sky day. I could have walked around for much longer, but the next coffee shop was just around the corner. Unlimited Coffee turned out to be one of the best coffee experiences of the trip.
We did enjoy a quiet riverside walk afterwards, which led us to HAT Coffee in Taito City. This was incredibly touristy - they make 3D latte art on your coffees and are geared up with camera stands assuming you will want to film it. I did not and the coffee was average but it was fun and it was just to while away a little time while we waited to board a river cruise. Despite the boat having very little seating, and these things are not designed for standing, even if wanted to, we managed to perch on the edge of some benches and focussed on the passing scenery.
Today we decided on lunch at a Chinese restaurant among the many options in an office block food court. This was a discovery in Seoul where restaurants in office blocks stayed open for dinner. After which, we headed to Glitch, one of my favourite memories of the last time. This time though, Glitch had a queue outside. I would never queue for food but we had travelled here especially and were unlikely to come back. We waited and once again, staff first offered to serve us outside - it was freezing but needs must. Then we moved to a bar table inside. Then finally we were able to move to a tiny table for 3. Still, it provoked the memory of the last time when we bought a Glitch mug. The beloved uses this when we have the good coffee while I use my Dean & Deluca one bought on the same trip.
And D&D is where we headed in the late afternoon for pastries (and Vanilla Chai for me) to help us cope with what Shinjuku has now become; huge, touristy and pretty tacky. This unique and unusual for Tokyo.
Having decided to move on swiftly to dinner, we couldn’t find our original choice of restaurant having struggled right through this bustling neighbourhood as it got more and more intense. Eventually, we decided to head out and go where we knew we were going to have a good experience - our first Shake Shack of the trip.
Even though this chain is now in the UK and indeed 5 minutes walk from where I live, I am reserving SS to make our special overseas memories.
For our last day of this leg of the trip, we start with our other favourite breakfast place, Sarabeth’s which for me means French toast. We attempted to eat here the day before but there was a wait even on Monday. It’s as lovely as I remember and set us up for the day. Much needed as the map taking us to the first coffee of the day was puzzling. Turns out Rokumei Coffee is deep below the station and it was another great experience. The first where I was tempted to buy some coffee bags which are all the rage in coffee shops here.
From here it’s train to visit a shrine which we’d hope be quiet on a Tuesday. It wasn’t but visiting Hie Shrine still proved a tranquil and reflective experience.
However, the best was yet to come. We had booked to go to the Team Lab art immersive experience a short walk from here. Borderless proved to be the most surprising, eye-opening, mind-blowing and yes, immersive experience of this Japanese adventure. And just when I thought we had immersed ourselves in all the rooms and followed some creatures walking along the wall from one room to the next, we went to the tea room and had our minds blown once again. I don’t think we will look at tea in the same way again.
I knew it would be something special but hadn’t factored on just being able to walk into the tea experience to beat all others this easily.
All three of us agreed this was a truly magical and unique experience.
We popped to the shopping centre afterwards and settled on lunch from the fancy-looking supermarket - think Harvey Nicholls meets Waitrose. What I hadn’t bargained for was microwaves, where staff were on hand to navigate the controls and decide which of the plastic containers were OK to heat up. Naturally, I chose noodles and grabbed a potato croquette too. Fice stars all around.
Here they had a % Arabic coffee place - the same chain as we sampled at Singapore airport so more lovely memories flooded in.
After a quick rest back at the hotel, this time we decided to head back to this Roppongi neighbourhood and settled on Taco Rico for a light dinner before tootling around the shops.
As it was our last night, we decided on a beer at the nearby Ant & Bea. Being in a pub is the rare time when we experience raised voices in Japan, in this case, due somewhat to a couple of Americans who thought we were Australian, chatting away with the bar person. I also recall being offered complimentary snacks to try as the representative who was selling them to the bar was present.
Next, back to the hotel to finish packing ready for the train to Kyoto. There are many more memories to be made.
January 2025
