Rotterdam (not anywhere)
I recently returned to Rotterdam, which is fast becoming one of my favourite European cities. This time, the plan is to explore the bustling port city rather than go on day trips around the Netherlands. We picked the right time to arrive; the Harbour Festival was on over our first 3 days, adding to the vibrant culture with its mix of locals, families, school groups and tourists.
We managed to see a cruise ship come into port as part of the festival and then later in the week, an altogether more magical experience of seeing one embark and depart after the lucky cruisers had spent a day in the city. One day, I want to be on a cruise ship welcomed by the stunning Erasmusbrug. We saw the bridge in action on our last day when heading out to breakfast. Lifting up to welcome in a couple of much smaller boats.
What I think about most about Rotterdam is its varied architecture. It seems as if everything goes and yet it all works. The first time we came here a little over a year ago, we planned loads of day trips and did all the tourist things including venturing out on tow trains to the beach at the Hook of Holland. Now, there is a direct line this coast but we resisted and stayed in the city and did not see a windmill (as pretty as they are) an enlarged clog or wooden tulips.
Our 6 days were filled with much-needed chill time, especially when the unwanted heat arrived in the second half of the trip.
Antwerp
We did a day trip to revisit Antwerp, another recent discovery that needed more time to explore. Going to the MAS (Museum aan de Stroom) was a favourite moment for the second time.
We stayed in the same hotel, Bruno Room Mates right by Erasmusbrug which meant seeing the fantastic skyline as we returned each evening. On the last night, we just sat and watched the sunset and took in how lucky we are.
Food
The fantastic Food Hallen at our hotel served us well a couple of times. We tried out Frenchified Rotterdam Brunch Bar and for dinner, DELI Bird for lovely but pricey Thai food. The place was packed with locals.
Harvest was equally packed for breakfast but less impressive. The queue was outside and as only a couple of people were waiting and they told us 10 mins max, we decided to embrace the sunshine. Then they asked the couple who arrived after us first. Upon bringing this to their attention, they instantly found us a less comfortable communal bar table - albeit with a waterside view. After this, the breakfast was only adequate and not to be repeated.
However, we revisited favourites from last time Messina for pizza - which I only have when on travels and Kite for my second Afghanistan meal. Both are excellent again and will be revisited next time.
After an evening architectural tour, we head back to the hotel after deciding this will be our cocktail evening of the trip. Sadly, The hotel bar was closed, so they recommended the opposite hotel, which has a rooftop bar. They seated us outside which seemed to be the smokers' area. After a few minutes of not having our order taken, we coughed and spluttered our way inside instead, alerting staff on the way who were visibly puzzled as to why we didn’t want the last available seat in a fog of smoke. They then left us for more time so we ripped and got back into the lift for ground level. Instead, we popped along to the New York hotel who were only slightly more welcome. After the first bar we went to told us it was closed for a private party, we only found out about the second bar when we pushed. So went in there and had a lacklustre experience with a stunning view instead. It seemed that staff were tired after 3 days of being exceptionally busy with the harbour festival. I’m giving the NYH the benefit of the doubt this time.
Our early Antwerp train was cancelled, but spending time around the Rotterdam Central station was delightful when it was still covered in fog. That led us to Lebkov for a light breakfast while we waited for the next train.
Jordy’s bakery provides fresh goods and we sat on the square outside our local branch surrounded by many young families before moving to the nearby Kopi Soesoe to sit outside again for an iced coffee. It was too warm to sit inside by this stage.
We got a good rooftop experience as Teds was great again for breakfast, this time with fewer wasps than last year (it’s the rooftop gardens and the sweet breakfasts).
Finally, a return to Backkers Winkle for our last breakfast where we were tempted by the array of homemade preserves but had already packed and weighed our suitcase. The Hema runs had filled it already but we have enough treats for a few months to remind us of the romance of Rotterdam.
Shopping
Esprit, one of my favourite brands is a must-visit when on the mainland and I fell in love with a fabulous pink knitted dress (like I need any more pink)
Talking of favourite brands, of course, we did the HEMA run* and filled up on nuts and snacks that I got addicted to when we had branches in the UK. (Hema run as that’s what I used to call it when popping out to the branch that used to be 10 minutes from my home).
Coffee
Our first coffee at Cafecito enabled us to climatise and watch the world go by.
Sound Kitchen - is a coffee shop that sold headphones (or the other way round) It is no longer about the bike. After which, we had a look around the lovely Delft Haven/Cool Haven neighbourhoods.
Hopper, visited on the same day as Harvest also ignored us after initially greeting us so doesn’t make the faves list.
The penultimate day was the warmest so we stayed indoors or still as much as possible thanks to a trip highlight, Bonza Coffee, which kept me indoors longer than most as it is part of an interiors store. Move over bikes and books (and headphones) we have a new industrial estate-based start-up coffee shop, which I very much appreciate. Later we enjoy a fantastic rosemary twist with another coffee at Crave.
There was one more coffee to be had on our last day at Giraffe before the weather got too warm and we felt grateful to be heading back home via a short flight from Schipol.
Culture
Before exploring the Photo Museum, we grabbed a toastie and healthy drink combo at the new Coffee Company across from the hotel. We weren’t going to miss the photos this time.
Another visit to the Cube Houses was due and this time I learned, thanks to the youngsters promoting outside, that we could go inside and visit a gallery. We never made it up the stairs to that but going inside this fascinating structure was a charm.
We returned to some favourites in Antwerp too. This time, there were no wasps to fight while having breakfast at Escobar and after a day of walking everywhere, a burger from Manhattans seemed right once again.
We also enjoyed coffee at Roast and a cold brew at 360 Doc which I don’t think existed when we visited the MAS - my happy place - last year. It was great to see a Tupperware shop that looked like it had just debuted. Antwerp enjoys Uniqlo too.
Rotterdam is a city that has it all, from its exciting architecture to its beautiful water views and the HEMA run. I am so happy that Rotterdam is located so close to us, as we can make it an annual destination. On the last evening of our visit, we simply sat and watched the sun disappear below the horizon, which was conveniently visible from across the road.
We strolled back to our hotel after that, feeling content and satisfied with the perfect way to end a wonderful trip.
August 2023 via KLM Airlines
