Fiery Mexico
Got 99 problems but my broken wrist ain't one
en el lado - on the side
pardon? - when not heard
con permiso - ‘excuse me,’ as in ‘can I get past you?’
Cuánto cuesta - how much is it?
Mexico City is vast, pretty, challenging, creative, old-school, old, enterprising, struggling, friendly and clean.
And it’s astronomically hot.
This is our first foray into Latin America, a hangover from when we first thought of going in 2020 when the world stopped.
When we booked it in mid-April, after cancelling the trip to Montreal due to my broken wrist, the forecast was 25c at worst (or best if you like that sort of thing) with refreshing cooler evenings. What transpired was that even sheltering from the breathtaking afternoon heat meant walking out into a 28c furnace in the evening. Everyone was suffering in this unprecedented June heat as the hotel staff testified as we hovered by the front door praying for rain, bracing ourselves before going outside.
So a couple of snow chasers rather than sun worshipers had to make it work in a city we have longed to experience. Mexico is trying to cope with the growing 22 million population and the drug and crime issues all with the backdrop of climate change.
I observed this in many areas while noticing the huge contrast between the Centro area where we conveniently based ourselves and the neighbourhoods that have already developed.
It is welcoming and friendly.
Disruptive. The holes in pavements seem to be mainly caused by bursting tree roots although, in the more improved neighbourhoods, these are neatly cordoned off with pretty fences or added to with bushes and plants. For someone recovering from wrist breakage, this meant watching my step. On the odd occasion, I got cool enough to be distracted, I inevitably avoided a trip-up incident.
Hotter than July. We got some respite in our hotel room and coped with the noisy aircon as opening the single window only bought hot air in. Our standard of going to galleries or shopping centres in the mid-afternoon heat didn’t quite work as Mexico City’s air con cannot cope. There were some cooler areas in the many and wonderfully varied museums but the shopping centres could still be stifling. Granted they were cooler than outside.
So I get heatstroke on day 6 and the beloved is ill the next day. Our saviour during this time after enduring a day of a dry food diet is Uber Eats. By day 8, we managed to get out for a local walk and witness the magnificent main square lit up, seemingly ready for an event.
We’re glad the illness happened in the middle of the trip and as we tentatively got back out for the last 3 days, we vowed to drink A LOT MORE liquid. I literally set ourselves drinking targets so we can find the energy to at least see more of this exuberant city. And insisted on Uber rides, no matter the cost. After the first brilliantly cool Uber Exec experience, none of the others appeared to have aircon but it was still better than the hot streets and gave us another way of us supporting the locals.
Cum On Feel the Noize. This is a noisy city; buzzers, bells, sales messages (I think) from loudspeakers on top of cars and from shouting and sirens, which were quieter in comparison.
Enterprising - everyone seemed to either be self-employed or have a side hustle. Seemingly anyone can be out on the pavement and sell. Clearly, the business laws are loose here and it seems the right thing to do. I saw very few actual beggars as most found something to sell. If I lived locally no doubt I would find buying flowers from the children who asked me irresistible. With the proviso of knowing the money was helping them and their families though.
Guarded. Every shop has an armed guard outside. The odd few that don’t, like the pharmacy where I got the fruity energy drinks to get our strength back on the corner of our street, were roped off. Security is big business here and I’m not sure if they’re guarding against criminal gangs or petty thieves but it’s a gloomy image.
And there are no windows. At night, walking the streets is pretty bleak as the graffiti-covered shutters come down. As shops are EVERYWHERE in this retail-driven city, all the streets are like this once all the shops have closed by 10pm. Every available space is turned into a retailer; a corner of a car park, a rambling building, an alleyway not to mention the hundreds of traders out on the pavements.
Markets are everywhere too. In the underdeveloped areas, they sell basics and essentials and they go on and on until we start seeing repeats. Mostly these offer essential items such as toiletries and food mixed in with electronics and clothing and kids were running a fair few.
In the more developed areas, some of the designers and boutiques are coming through. I bought a kimono-style dress from Bazar del Oro Market from the trader I met on the first Saturday and loyally returned to seek on the second. We are determined to fill the pockets of local people as much as possible.
Plus we’d spent a lot of time walking about in the heat looking for a cashpoint as few traders had card capability.
The first thing we bought here was a little robot character as we had got towards the end of the trip and hardly spent any money. Inevitably the beloved bought a T-shirt and a couple of hats. Sadly the locally made bowl that reminded me of Frida Khalo was too large and heavy to bring back.
Inexpensive. I knew this, hence the intention to buy from local businesses. On my list was a handheld fan (which was so good we went back to buy 2 more), a new sun hat and the dress. Most of that was bought in the last couple of days when we got out again. I was so grateful that one thing we didn’t need to do was check the price. We did still look for value but we bought tonnes of bottled drinks and frappes like I would never at home. And those Uber Eats deliveries saved us from traipsing around the searing streets looking for food we could keep down when we had almost zero appetites or energy. Worth every penny and we tipped heavily. We still spent very little.
Side note: the Metro logo looked similar to the Mi Store’s. We eventually came across a little Mi Store so we can’t be the only ones who spotted this.
The car is king and public transport unpredictable. There are constant vans parked along already congested streets delivering to the thousands of businesses. At the same time, the existing metro lines are just adequate most of the time and only slightly more reliable than the buses. Thankfully most lines are not very deep as lifts and escalators are severely lacking. The stations are spacious, much needed for 4.6 million people going through each day and the staff - you have to go to staff as it’s cash only to load up the travel cards - are wonderfully patient.
However, when we resurfaced after the heatstroke, we tried 1 journey and then avoided public transport.
The amazing Cable bus is a highlight of the trip. Opened in 2021, it goes into the hills and is designed to connect the disconnected rather than tourists. So it is priced as per regular public transport and I deem it essential for visitors to see the even more real Mexico City. I’m not a natural cable fan - being scared of heights and all - although I’m glad I was convinced as once out of the main city area, I thought less about the height I was dangling from and more about the breathtaking view of hundreds of dwellings. One of these stops is the only place we saw distressed street dogs suffering in the heat. Sadly there was no shop where I could buy a bowl to pour water into. We just hoped that the locals were looking after them.
The Cable bus adventure is much more about seeing how dwellers of Mexico City live high up in the mountains.
The first thing we do after resurfacing illness is to go back on the cable bus in a different direction. It was a bit ambitious as we discovered we are still low on energy but we are so proud to have made it out again.
Mexico City has no train station. This is my first shock. A couple of days in, I begin to look for day trips out of the hot city and I believe this is the first place I have been to anywhere in the world without a train station. For sure it’s the first megacity, of that size in which I’d expect several stations. So there are to be no day trips we’d normally do in a 10-day trip. There is evidence of long-dormant tracks so hopefully they will come back soon.
Clean city. There are endless cleaners - on the streets, in public buildings and everywhere. This must be the other big employment opportunity next to security.
Environmental. I’ve mentioned the amount of plastic in the hotel and plastic bottles so it’s refreshing to see good old Mcdonald's (cold) drinks come with a paper lid with a drinking spout. No straw.
Made in Mexico. When we see so little made in the UK, Mexico still affords to do it. The stall holder we bought the beloved’s hats from looked at what he was wearing (to find the size) and quickly dismissed the longevity of it based on the fact that it was made in China. We were proudly presented with some beautiful Mexican-made hats.
Later, I’m thankful to find my own hat from a street trader in Coyoacán on our last full day. My sunhat is years old and doesn’t hold its shape any more. It’s been replaced by something not made in China with a wonderful memory attached.
Not Mexican: they have Costa Coffee presence here, mainly in the Santa Clara ice cream cafes.
Dogs. We were surprised and somewhat delighted to see so many dogs out in the blistering heat. They seemed happy and well looked after in the city streets and I particularly enjoyed my spot of dog-spotting returning to Cucuricho in Condessa on our penultimate day. Happy dogs are a good way to judge a place.
Highlights
Pasteleria Ideal Bakery. There are 2 branches of these huge inexpensive bakeries from which we came out with a bag load each time. We saw their blue and red boxes carried all over the city. Go where the locals go.
Roma. An altogether different city experience in a neighbourhood where the pavements are mostly intact, there are many shady trees and many cafes. And dogs to watch.
Also, Neighbouring La Condesa was similar. These were on our list and then the American I got chatting to during our first coffee stop recommended them
Dinner at Swagat. I’m so happy to be out and again with at least a bit of an appetite and this place has the best soundtrack for a Saturday evening
Watching the breakdancing on Avenida Juárez with a large crowd on our way back
Uber eats meal - In particular, the first one from Green Grass, a cafe we’d been to and their healthy food was just what we needed for our first solid food. I appreciated it all the more after living on crackers and definitely 100% better than going out in the heat and grabbing, This stood out as it was the first meal we finished. The first one was on meal between us but it meant we were on the mend
Pride everywhere. Mexicans seemed to be proud of their city and what they have to offer.
Pride too. The PRIDE flags were everywhere and seeing openly gay couples put a smile on my face daily.
Cable bus. For one thing, it holds the Guinness World Record certification as the longest public transportation route via cable car in the world. Then it’s affordable for most and free for those over 60, those under 5 and those with disabilities plus some other groups. It links to the city and honoured us with the best smile of the trip when we said ‘keep the change’ in a cafe at the end of the line, Cuautepec.
Museo Soumaya is spectacular inside and out and there’s a shopping centre (another warm one) next door where I had a crepe and a cooling drink coupled with a welcome sit down
Finding the rechargeable handheld fan I meant to get in Muji before I left in Log On, store I’m pretty sure I visited a branch of this in Hong Kong (or Tokyo, or somewhere) and bought the very bag I’m using on this trip. The store is in yet another warm shopping centre, this one without a roof. In the food court, where we shared a meal from Green Grass, it was even hotter. However, this is a great find as we found it on Uber Eats later in the week when it really mattered.
The National Museum Of Anthropology reached the top of the must-do list when we ventured out again on Saturday morning. We knew we’d made a good decision upon discovering the fantastic waterfall in the middle of the huge courtyard which we pop out to cool down between exploring each building. The place is fascinating and ginormous. On a cooler day, many hours can be spent.
After the first exhibit, we search for a drink, find their fantastic little coffee shop, and manage a pastry. Each.
Later, we feel well enough to have a fabulous healthy lunch in the restaurant next door. It’s over a week into our trip and I succeed in munching through my much-coveted churros! The staff here are outstanding and the place is simply gorgeous. We’re well on our way to recovery now!
We may have saved the best for last. Maybe it’s the joy of being out, for our penultimate day, a Sunday, we travel out to Coyoacán. There are many highlights here. The place is far removed from the big cityness of CDMX and feels like a community. Being able to go to Frida Khalo Park and pass by the museum. It’s sold out now although it wasn’t when we originally intended to come 3 days ago. The icing on the cake (or the flower on the drink) is the refreshing lavender drink at Cafe Avellaneda. Possibly our most perfect moment as we ease into the last two indoor seats just as the band of musicians finish their song. We have enough time to tip them and see this mysterious purple drink being made and so decide to order it. Everything about coming here fell into place at the Cafe Avellaneda in Coyoacán.
And then the prettiest drink I have seen landed on my lap - literally, there is no room for tables here.
Coffee
Cafe Quintales - our first stop after picking up some bakery treats at Pasteleria Ideal Bakery. I got some neighbourhood recommendations from an American who was visiting a friend.
Almanegra
Quentin
Blend Station - the small local chain that has a great food menu too
Café Punto del Cielo - the one with the cycles
Cucurucho - so good we went twice, the second time sitting outside dog-watching before dinner.
Sears terrace for the view. The store is a saviour in the Centro area for our last day.
Cafe Avellaneda for the magic
Food
Swagat for the great Indian food, magical lighting and toe-tapping soundtrack
Green Grass for healthy nourishment
Constela - fabulous, healthy people watching lunch
The National Museum Of Anthropology - for lunch
Blend Station for breakfast
Hotel Punto - if you get caught starving and tired in the Centro area, our hotel will give you a warm welcome
Shopping
The markets. The everyday markets for everyday essentials - these are everywhere or the Bazar del Oro Market for boutiques and designers.
Liverpool. Because who doesn’t want to go to a store called Liverpool in Mexico? I buy a couple of tops from the Ferranni range whose logo is a terrier dog. I have no further knowledge about them but this picked us up as we started venturing out again on our second Friday evening. Liverpool also has a restaurant which we never got to try.
Pasteleria Ideal Bakery
As you will imagine, Mexico City is swarming with American brands so I got my fix of Williams Sonoma and West Elm who are neighbours and Bath and Bodyworks. I don’t we ventured into Dunkin Donuts in the end but we do make a pilgrimage to Woolworths.
Log-on for whatever you forgot to pack.
Neighbourhoods
Reforma for a small shopping centre and great market (which I didn’t get to see properly) and the Angel of Independence statue. Also, Zona Rosa which we explored less and is said to be the LGBT+/party area.
Roma the neighbourhood we should have stayed in, now that we know better and visited several times at all times of day and evening.
Coyoacán. Our last day here felt pretty special. Quite a way out from the Centro area and it feels like it. A real community feel greeted us as the Uber driver dropped us off at the park
Would I go to Mexico again? Yes, at some point in the future in a different climate. I am curious to go back and see how it develops.
June 2023
